Domaine Michel Lafarge, Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains, L'Exception 2021

Domaine Michel Lafarge, the Lafarge family's Volnay estate, farms about 11.7 ha biodynamically, mostly in Volnay and Beaune. The headline reds are Volnay Clos des Chênes (0.9 ha) and the Clos du Château des Ducs monopole (0.57 ha), reached through the back of the family house, alongside Caillerets, Mitans, Beaune Grèves, red and white Beaune Aigrots and Pommard Pézerolles. Regional wines make up a large share: Aligoté, Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne Pinot Noir, plus village Volnay and Meursault. Vinification is traditional, with fully destemmed grapes and very little new oak (sources give 5% to 15%), producing pure, transparent, delicate wines that still age well.

Appellation

Volnay, Beaune, Pommard, Meursault (Côte de Beaune)

Owner

Lafarge family

Vineyards

About 11.68 ha: Clos des Chênes 0.90 ha, Clos du Château des Ducs 0.57 ha (monopole), Caillerets 0.28 ha, Mitans 0.39 ha, Beaune Grèves 0.38 ha

Grapes

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Aligoté

Wines

Volnay Clos des Chênes, Clos du Château des Ducs, Caillerets, Mitans; Beaune Grèves, Aigrots; Pommard Pézerolles; Bourgogne Aligoté, Passetoutgrains

Style

100% destemmed, low new oak; pure and delicate

Sources: pearlofburgundy.com, wine.sothebys.com